SWEET CHOCOLATE BREEZE OF A SUMMER NIGHT

by Chef Nina Métayer, Délicatisserie, Paris

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"The shapes and movement on Longchamp bags inspired me: the curve of the loops, the delicacy of the stitching... I wanted to translate this elegance into pastry, playing with textures and the precision of details, as a sweet echo to this exceptional craftsmanship."

CARIBBEAN ROSEMARY CREMEUX

  • 225g heavy cream (35%)
  • 225g whole milk
  • 110g egg yolks
  • 18g brown sugar
  • 215g 66% dark chocolate
  • 17g fresh rosemary

In a saucepan, bring the cream and milk to a boil. Meanwhile, finely chop the rosemary and add it to the boiling mixture. Cover and let it infuse for 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve and adjust the weight if necessary.

Reheat the infused milk and cream. In a separate bowl, mix the egg yolks with the brown sugar, then gradually incorporate the hot liquid while stirring constantly.

Cook the mixture to 82°C (179.6°F) like a custard, ensuring not to exceed this temperature. Pour the preparation in three additions over the chocolate, gently emulsifying with a spatula until smooth and glossy. Blend the cremeux with an immersion blender for a perfect texture. Transfer to a clean container, cover with plastic wrap directly on the surface, and refrigerate until use.


CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE

  • 80g brown sugar
  • 31g granulated sugar
  • 116g T55 flour (or all-purpose flour)
  • 1.7g fleur de sel (sea salt)
  • 36g cocoa powder
  • 98g AOP Echiré butter

In a bowl, mix the softened butter with all the dry ingredients until a sandy texture forms. Spread the crumble on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Bake at 150°C (302°F) for 24 minutes until golden. Once out of the oven, crumble again while still warm to maintain a fine, crisp texture. Let cool before use.


CHOCOLATE RECONSTITUTION

  • 87g feuilletine (crisped crepe flakes)
  • 0.5g fleur de sel (sea salt)
  • 310g chocolate crumble
  • 128g 70% dark chocolate

Melt the dark chocolate gently in a bain-marie. In a bowl, combine the chocolate crumble, feuilletine, and fleur de sel. Add the melted chocolate and mix until well combined.


LEMON CONFIT

  • 63g lemon juice
  • 10g pear puree
  • 31g sugar
  • 1.6g pectin
  • 1 sheet gelatin (200 bloom)

Heat the lemon juice and pear puree to 40°C (104°F). In a small bowl, mix the sugar and pectin, then add to the warm liquid while stirring constantly. Bring to a gentle boil for a few seconds while continuing to stir.

Off the heat, add the pre-soaked gelatin and stir until completely dissolved.


MARINATED LIME SEGMENTS

  • 35g lime juice
  • 14g brown sugar
  • 170g lime segments
  • 3g lime zest

In a bowl, combine the lime juice, brown sugar, and finely grated lime zest. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours, then strain.

Add the lime segments (quartered) and marinate again for another 24 hours. Strain before use.


REED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

  • 35g 66% dark chocolate
  • 30g milk chocolate (40%)
  • 28g whole milk
  • 25g heavy cream (35%)
  • 138g heavy cream (35%), whipped
  • 25g egg yolks

Melt the chocolates in a bain-marie until smooth. In a saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a boil, then pour over the egg yolks while stirring constantly. Cook to 82°C (179.6°F) without exceeding the temperature, as for a custard.

Pour this preparation over the melted chocolates and emulsify until smooth and glossy. When the mixture reaches 50°C (122°F), gently fold in the whipped cream to maintain the airy texture.


DARK GLAZE

  • 42g water
  • 100g sugar
  • 73g heavy cream (35%)
  • 3.5 sheets gelatin (200 bloom)
  • 10g inverted sugar (trimoline)
  • 37g glucose syrup
  • 28g cocoa powder
  • 1 gold leaf


In a saucepan, bring the water, sugar, and glucose to a boil. Sift in the cocoa powder and whisk until smooth.

In a separate pan, bring the cream and trimoline to a boil, then incorporate it into the cocoa mixture while stirring constantly. Bring to a boil again, then remove from heat and add the pre-soaked gelatin. Stir until fully dissolved.

Let the glaze cool, cover it with plastic wrap (directly touching the surface), and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Use the glaze at 30°C (86°F). For a touch of elegance, carefully place a gold leaf on top when applying the glaze.


CRESS AND FLOWERS

  • Radish
  • Purple radish
  • Pink and violet Dianthus (Sweet William)
  • Yellow and orange calendula
  • Orange French marigold (Tagetes patula)
  • Purple edible flowers
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